The Cumberland Road Project

Garrett County, MD

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Sesquicentennial of the Casselman River Bridge and the History of Little Crossing
Originally published by The Little Crossings Historical Committee, 1963

(Editor's Note: The following history has been edited for spelling only. The content is as it appeared in the original publication.)


Capt. Hoye on the Casselman Bridge

Bridges and culverts on the Cumberland Road were well built of stone. One of the most noted of the bridges was at the Little Crossings over the Casselman River, then known as "Little Youghiogheny." This 80 foot span was the largest stone arch in America when constructed in 1813. It is said that it was built larger than needed to carry the river water in order that the proposed C. & O. canal might pass under it.

A public celebration was held on the day the supporting timbers of the bridge were removed. But people who had seen the arch under construction said it would collapse when the supports were removed. So the superintendent, David Shriver, with a few laborers, on the night before the celebration, quietly removed the "key" of the supporting timbers. The bridge stood without support, as it stands today. It carried the traffic of a great highway for 120 years, until the present iron bridge was built in 1933.
Capt. Charles. E. Hoye: The Glades Star, September 30, 1947

The Old Bridge Restored

After the relocation of U. S. Route 40 in 1933 and the opening for traffic of a new steel bridge 400 feet south-east of the old stone arch bridge, no provisions were made by the State Roads Commission to preserve this historic monument to the earliest bridge construction methods in the country. Consequently, due to deterioration of the side walls and approaches, the bridge was closed to all vehicles in 1953.

Deploring the plight of this famous mascot of Little Crossings, Grantsville, and indeed the National Road, Harry C. Edwards, then Grantsville's member of the Maryland House of Delegates, was instrumental in having $20,000 appropriated for restoration of this unique structure. The work was completed in the early part of November, 1955. In 1956-57 further funds were allocated for the purchase and development of the State Park and Picnic Grounds adjoining the famous bridge. In the near future The Little Crossings Historical Committee, which is sponsoring the Sesquicentennial celebration of the old bridge, hopes to have its arch lighted for the enjoyment of tourists visiting this historic valley. ~ A.E.S. (Alta E. Schrock)



Contract for Construction of Stone Bridge at Little Crossings

The famous stone arch bridge across the Casselman was constructed by David Shriver, superintendent of construction on the Cumberland Road. It was built under the presidency of James Madison, who was in office from 1809 to 1817.

Since the full contract for the building of the bridge is too long for publication here, an extract follows:

ARTICLE OF AGREEMENT made this 4th day of September. 1813. between Abraham Kerne and John Bryson contractors, and David Shriver on the part of the United States.

The contractors agree to build a bridge "across the Little Youghagany River, on the ninth section of the United States Western road... eighty feet span in the clear with a width of road across the arch of twenty-six feet. The arch to be a segment of 120 degrees, to be three feet thick." etc.. etc. All materials to be found by the contractors, except lime.

Bridge to be completed on or before the first day of November, 1814.

The United States agrees to pay the contractors at the rate of $2.25 for every perch of mason work in the bridge: $2,000 to be paid as soon as the abutments of the bridge arc built, and $2,000 when the bridge is half built.

The contract concludes as follows:

“It is hereby likewise provided that no member of Congress shall be admitted to any share or part in this contract or agreement or to any benefit to arise therefrom."

Signed and sealed by David Shriver and the contractors. Kerns and Bryson. before Jno. Scott and M. Hallam. Sept. 30, 1813

APPROVED JAMES MADISON


Casselman River Bridge

The famous Casselman River Bridge, largest single-span stone arch bridge in the United States at the time of construction in 1813, today a magnificent monument to the earliest bridge-building methods in the country. This photo was apparently taken soon after the rebuilding of the sidewalk and approaches in 19ll, following a period of decadence of the old pike and its fine arch bridges.


Historians Write on the National Road

(Jacob) Brown On the the Cumberland Road (Later, National Road)

After the organization of the general government in 1789 the tide from the East to the West, mainly over this way, increased steadily, so much so that the road became worn out, and utterly inadequate to the public necessities. And this decayed public artery was the first to receive national treatment. As far back as 1806, the year of the advent of the great Clay into the United States Senate, Congress saw and acted on the necessity of making internal improvements. This year the sum of $30,000 was appropriated to open and make the "Cumberland Road" from that point to the Ohio River. From this time on it was known as the "Cumberland Road." In 1810, $60,000 were appropriated to be spent between Cumberland and Brownsville, Pennsylvania. In 1811, $50,000 were appropriated to be applied between the same points; in 1812, $30,000 to be used with the same limits, and in 1815, $30,000 in the same manner: in 1818 the sums of $52,984 and $260,000 for the Cumberland Road generally.
~ Brown's Miscellaneous Writings, 1896

Thomas Scharf On the National Pike

All those who have lived beyond the period of middle age will remember the wonderful traffic that was carried on by means of the pike, There were some fourteen coaches each way every day of the Old Line and Good Intent Companies. What emulation and even envy there would be between the different drivers as to the merits of their respective lines in regard to speed and endurance of horses. Then there were Adam's express wagons, then the line wagons, carrying freight to all points along the road; besides innumerable private vehicles of all descriptions. Whenever a farmer did not have much to do he would rig up his team and go to hauling on the pike. Most of the great men of the United States have passed over this road, particularly those from the West and Southwest, such as Jackson, Clay, Benton. Randolph, Allan. Scott, Taylor and hosts of others. Repair-hands were constantly at work, and even then they could hardly keep the road in order, the big wagons crushing everything under them like eggshells.
~ Schraf's History of Western Maryland, 1882

Capt. Hoye on the Cumberland Road and Pike: It's Decline and Revival

The length of the road from Cumberland to Wheeling was 132 miles, of which 34-1/2 miles were in Maryland. The highest point on the National Road is the crest of Negro Mountain— 2,908 feet. From the time it was thrown open to the public in 1818 until the coming of the railroads in 1852-53, the National Pike was the one great highway over which passed the bulk of trade and travel, and the mails between the East and West.

Stagecoach lines were established to carry passengers; the fare, Cumberland to Wheeling, $8.25. Conestoga covered wagons, drawn by six horses, carried freight. Farmers, called sharpshooters, also hauled freight during the busy season. Droves of cattle, sheep and hogs were driven eastward. Inns were built by the roadside to provide food and drink and lodging for travelers; food for animals was stored in big barns. A steady stream of emigrants passed westward.

On August 1, 1832 an army engineer from Cumberland reported, "I find the road in shocking condition. Some of it is now almost impassible," Congress finally appropriated money for repair. In 1835 Congress made its last appropriation for the Cumberland Road and the states took over. Tolls were then collected for passage at "toll gates".

The B & O Railroad reached Cumberland in 1842, Wheeling in 1853. For ten years passengers for the West transferred from trains at Cumberland to stage coaches and were carried rapidly over the mountains to the Ohio. Freight was also transported in big covered wagons. But coaches and wagons could not compete with steam-propelled trains. When the railroads reached Wheeling and Pittsburgh (1852), travel over the old pike declined rapidly; inns closed and became farm houses. Toll collections decreased and the road was allowed to deteriorate.

But the old pike did not die. In 1916 Congress passed the Federal-Aid Road Act, designed to connect the State Highway systems into an articulated system of interstate highways. In 1925 the restored pike, which includes the old Cumberland Road, was designated United States Route 40.
~ Excerpts from an article by our eminent Garrett County historian, the late Capt. Charles E. Hoye appearing in THE GLADE STAR, Sept. 30, 1947.

Thomas Scharf On Little Crossings

Scharf's History of Western Maryland, published in 1882, gives a description of interest to the student of Little Crossings history and of the old pike:

"GRASSY CABIN SURVEY” was the earliest entered near Grantsville, and was made in 1768. John Sloan was the first settler upon it, a part of which he purchased before the Revolutionary War. To his son John Joseph he conveyed his lands of four hundred and seventy-three and a half acres, part of "Grassy Cabin Survey." John Sloan died about 1826, and John Joseph Sloan died in 1832. The heirs of John Joseph Sloan conveyed by deed this land to Jacob and Daniel Blougher, but after the death of Sloan, Henry Brewer obtained out of the Land Office of the Western Shore of Maryland a special warrant to escheat this land for an alleged want of legal heirs, and a patent was issued to said Brewer. John Wesley Blougher now (1882) resides on this tract, a mile and a half east of Grantsville, upon which he has a beautiful mansion overlooking the National Road.

DUNBAR'S CAMP SITE - Little Crossings is a half-mile east of Grantsville on the National road, and is memorable from its having been in the Braddock campaign of 1755 the camp of Col. Dunbar's brigade, made up mostly of sick and disabled soldiers, who tarried at this place to recruit their enfeebled bodies, and were so much benefited that in two weeks' time they were enabled to proceed on their way to Tort DuQuesne, but they did not get farther than the top of Laurel Hill, some thirty miles west, before they were met by Maj. Washington, with the scattered remnant of Braddock's proud army, retreating from the disastrous battle on the banks of the Monongahela.

THE VILLAGE - Little Crossings was a considerable place when the sites of old and new Grantsville were a wilderness. Here Jesse Tomlinson built a store, which was kept by George Matthews. This old log weather-boarded store still stands (1882), as does also the two-story log weather-board tavern-house Mr. Tomlinson also built, and which was once a noted inn. The Tomlinson saw and grist-mill was rebuilt in 1856 by Perry Shultz, and is now the property of Eli Stanton. The fine culvert bridge over the 'Little Crossings' (Castleman River) was built on the National road in 1817*. Andrew Fox built a large planing-mill here in 1878, but just after its completion it was destroyed by fire. Eli Stanton owns fifty acres, embracing the old seat of Little Crossings, where he has erected a handsome residence, A little east of his house lives his brother, Uriah M., half an owner in Schramm & Co.'s distillery (registered No. 17). and located a mile farther east on the National road. It has a capacity for distilling thirty gallons of whiskey per day, and is about to be enlarged.

“The progenitor of the Stanton family settled just after the Revolution on 'Stanton's Purchase', a survey where Schramm & Co.'s distillery is located."

(* Actually constructed in 1813 completed by 1814, Scharfs' date may mistakenly refer to the bridge at Great Crossings, over the Youghiogheny, now under water.)

Jacob Brown On the Innkeepers of Little Crossings

THE MATTHEWS AT LITTLE CROSSINGS: Special reference is made to George Matthews and William Sheetz, half brothers; and the latter at least 90. now living at Selbysport, Md. and Libertyville, Iowa. Matthews was born near Frostburg* on a farm. Learned the tanning trade; after that for some years a stage-driver, (then a very respectable vocation) which he quit and went to hotel keeping at the Little Crossings, about the year 1835*. He continued at the business several years with success, and made money enough to purchase a store at that place, which was then the most business point between Frostburg and Petersburg. He was also successful as a merchant, but his early suppressed tastes for farming returned to him. In 1839* he sold, or rather traded his store to Daniel Smouse, now deceased, for his fine farm near Selbysport, where he has resided continually all these many years—nearly half a century. His wife, nee Lydia Compton, still survives in vigorous health and life.

MORE INN-KEEPERS OF LITTLE CROSSINGS: In 1839 Alexander McCurdy came to the Crossings from a little tavern a few miles east of Cumberland, He ran the Crossings house for several years in a lively manner. It was then a stopping place for the stages. McCurdy remained here two years, then removed to Keysers Ridge, where he quit the business in 1842, unsuccessfully - too generous. Went to Virginia and became a contractor. He was born in Ireland, but was an intense American from the Whig standpoint. He had two brothers. John and Samuel, the former an elegant gentleman, scholar and lawyer of the modest type, but none the worse for that. He was our teacher for a quarter in a log school house, with slab benches, &c. in the winter of 1840-41.

During the winter named, we were domiciled here as a schoolboy. On a very cold frosty afternoon in February, several coaches drove up to the hotel for dinner, with unusual vim and style. Boy-like we ran to see, or learn the cause of the dash. We saw descending from the coach an aged, but distinguished looking man of slow, feeble step, with complexion and hair bleached into full whiteness, deeply wrapped in fancy macinaw blankets. It was Gen. Harrison, President-elect, on his way to Washington, to be inaugurated. His appearance was awe inspiring to a youth, something like old Gov. Thomas in his last days, though more feeble. He lived only six weeks, then came confusion and disappointment, instead of expected and needed reform. Was it not enough to kill a stronger man than he by dragging him for many hundred miles in uncomfortable coaches over mountains in mid-winter of old time severity? Such a thing now would be barbarism.

One other host presided here several years, covering the memorable political campaign of 1844, Wm. R. Dawson. He kept several other hotels before then and after. He used to furnish the Whigs with teams and wagons for their processions and shows in that hard battle. Dawson in his more early life held important offices, among them Sheriff of Allegany County.

We thought Little Crossings had been fully done up, but Samuel Gilliss was overlooked. He was there a year or two in the early eighteen thirties. Lost his wife and buried here in the Grantsville cemetery. After that he moved West. He was a man of fine appearance and respectable intelligence. He was one of the jurors who convicted George Swearingen of wife murder in 1829.

(* Does not agree with information from Mrs. Cochrane.)
~ Brown's Miscellaneous Writings, 1896

Capt. Charles Hoye On Early Settlement - Second Land Survey in Garrett County

“GRASSY CABBIN", 500 acres, surveyed for Captain Thomas Bassee in 1767 and patented to him in 1768, lies north of the National Road and on the Casselman River. A century ago 427 acres of this tract belonged to Jacob and Daniel Blocher. It was the subject of a noted law suit, finally decided in favor of the Blochers in 1840. by the U. S. Supreme Court. The name "Grassy Cabbin" was probably suggested by a cabin in grass-grown Indian fields at the old crossing of the river—then known as "Martin's Cove", perhaps Martin's cabin.* The patent refers to the Casselman as "Old Town Creek," which indicates there was once an Indian village on the property, where relics of the red men are still found on the William Stanton farm.

Captain Thomas Bassett was one of Gen. Braddock's engineers in the expedition against Fort Duquesne. When helping to build the Braddock Road between Little Meadows and the Little Crossings he doubtless noted this fertile, gently sloping land. In 1756 he was granted a warrant for it by Lord Baltimore's land office; this warrant was renewed, due to the continuance of the war. "Grassy Cabbin" was "partly cultivated" before the French and Indian War, by some unknown settler—possibly Martin, so it was one of the very first places settled temporarily in our county.

Capt. Bassett appears to have returned to England. He sold "Grassy Cabbin" to Governor Horatio Sharpe. who in 1789 sold it to Benjamin Ogle, who sold to John Ridout of Annapolis, whose sons deeded it in 1801 to John Sloan, whose heirs sold it to the Blochers. It is now divided into several fine farms.

SLOAN'S ON THE CASSELMAN: In the I790's John Ridout, gentleman of Annapolis, sold the "Grassy Cabbin" tract to John Sloan, farmer, of Allegany County. Sloan believed his land on the Braddock Road and the bank of the Casselman River to be a good town site, so he laid off a number of town lots at the old or lower crossing of the river. Two of these lots, Nos. 7 and 8, "on Cumberland St. in the town of Sloan's Ville," he sold George Newman in 1812 for $40.

But the new National Pike did not follow the old Braddock Road; so Sloan's Ville was abandoned as a town site. In 1817 George Newman sold his lots back to Sloan for $80, including the buildings.
~ The Glade Star. June 30, 1950. Both articles written by its editor the late Capt. Charles E. Hoye.

Captain Hoye On the Stantons and Stanton's Mill

PIONEER THOMAS STANTON: Thomas Stanton, ancestor of the Garrett County Stantons, was probably of Scotch-Irish origin. He may have come here from Anne Arundel Co., Md. where members of the family had settled at an early date, and where a Mary Stanton had married Col. Henry Ridgely.

Anyhow, Thomas was one of the earliest settlers of the Little Crossings neighborhood, being one of those reported squatted on State land "westward of Ft. Cumberland" in 1787. In 1792 he surveyed and patented "Stanton's Purchase”, 62 acres; this is the tract in "Smoothe Valley”, west side of Chestnut Ridge, on the Braddock Road, now the property of Milton B. Miller. Here Thomas Stanton resided and kept an Inn, a competitor of Tomlinson on the east side of the Ridge. Here lived in later times in succession, Jacob Sides. Wm. Wootin, Peter Yeast, and in more recent years a portion of the Stanton farm belonged to Major Phillip Durst.

In the census of 1800 Thomas Stanton is listed as head of a family of four.

Stanton disappeared about 1803. On a gloomy afternoon he went into the forest to look for his horses, which were at large with bells upon them. He never was heard of afterwards. 'The universal opinion was that he had fallen prey of the wild beasts which were then more numerous than the domestic animals. Years afterward, however, some human bones were found along Laurel Run, near the Compton farm, which no doubt were his. A pack of wolves or a stealthful panther in all likelihood appeased their hunger upon his infirm body.' His remains probably rest, unmarked, in the Grassy Cabbins grave-yard on the old Andrew Blocker farm.

STANTON'S MILL: March 3, 1797, Thomas Stanton conveyed by deed to Jesse Tomlinson certain water privileges for a grist mill on "Indian Spring Run". This conveyance doubtless refers to the site of the present Stanton's Mill, the first grist mill in the Little Crossings neighborhood, built by Jesse Tomlinson, about 1797, on what was then known as the Little Youghiogheny, now the Casselman River.

It was built on the historic site of General Braddock's camp in 1755, on his march toward Ft. DuQuesne, and here his troops forded the stream just below the new bridge on the old National Road, now U. S. 40. Dunbar's Brigade, composed of sick soldiers, remained here several days.

The Tomlinson Mill was rebuilt in 1856 by Perry Shultz. The original structure constitutes the framework of about two-thirds of the present structure. In 1862 Perry Shultz deeded the property to William Stanton, who in turn on May 9, 1867, conveyed the mill to his son, Eli Stanton, who successfully operated it for forty-three years. During his ownership in 1900, he enlarged the original Tomlinson mill to its present size. Meantime, in the year 1888, he discarded the old stone buhrs and installed rolls for grinding wheat.

In 1910, William E. Stanton, son of Eli Stanton, acquired title to the mill and is the present owner.

¹ For many years its only power consisted of water. In 1893 the water power was augmented by steam but later abandoned by its present owner, and, electricity was substituted for steam.
² In January 1942 . Byron Bender, son-in-law of William E., took over the operation of the mill; and Robert, son of Byron has been operating it since September 1961.
~ Note: Both these articles appeared in The Mountain Democrat, December 27, 1934.

P. L. Livengood On the Little Crossings

An article written about 1926 by the late Peter L. Livengood of Salisbury, Pennsylvania, appearing in the Meyersdale Republican of that date, gives the following interesting account of and quotation concerning the oldest inn of Little Crossings (now known as Penn Alps on the Casselman).

An Error in Searight's History of the National Pike

Several histories of the National Pike have been written, of which Hon. T. B. Searight's is the most complete. It is a valuable and interesting work, but as it was not written until 1894, a date long after much of the famous road's early history had been forgotten, and many of those who figured prominently in making the road's early history had passed away, it is but natural that the Searight history is not as complete as it would have been if the author had compiled the work before he was himself an aid man.

In its account of old taverns and tavern keepers, the Searight history makes the following statement: “There was no tavern at Little Crossings previous to the year 1836. Subsequent to that date a tavern was established there by Alexander Carlisle. His house was a large frame structure on the south side of the road, subsequently kept by John and Samuel McCurdy, and later at different times by David Johnson, Wm. Dawson, Elisha Brown, Jacob Conrad and David Mahoney. Although nearly twenty years elapsed from the building of the road before any landlord at Little Crossings beckoned the weary traveler to rest and refreshment, nevertheless, thereafter, and until business ceased on the line, the locality presented many and rare attractions."

Historian Searight was evidently not well posted on the tavern history of Little Crossings, as George Matthews, who died many years ago at Selbysport, Md., conducted a tavern there as early as 1832. Who erected the tavern, the writer is unable to state, but Mr. Matthews kept tavern in the same building, now known as "Dixie Tavern," and the old tavern-keepers mentioned in the foregoing paragraph also were proprietors of the same house in later years at different times.

SOME OF DIXIE TAVERN'S EARLY HISTORY: The writer is indebted to Mrs. Ellen Glotfelty, of Salisbury, for the following interesting information concerning the early years of Dixie Tavern, when that hostelry was conducted as a public house by her father, George Matthews. Although Mrs. Glotfelty is almost 82 years old, her memory is still exceedingly good, and the information she gives was related to her by her parents, and frequently discussed by them with each other in her presence. Mrs. Glotfelty does not recall what name Dixie Tavern went by when her parents conducted it. She has no recollection of ever hearing her parents mention the house by a hotel name, but often heard her mother relate that she (Mrs. Matthews) was born in 1816, married at the age of 16. and that she and her husband went to housekeeping in 1832, at Little Crossings, where Mr. Matthews conducted a tavern in the same building which later was known as the old Stanton mansion and is now known as Dixie Tavern.

They conducted the house as a tavern, and Mr. Matthews at the same time also conducted a general store and a blacksmith shop at Little Crossings. The store was a few feet west on the same side. Mr. Matthews purchased his store from a man named Fielding Sheperd. His blacksmith shop was conducted by David Compton, a brother of Mrs. Matthews. Mrs. Glotfelty states that her parents conducted a hotel at Little Crossings from 1832 up to about 1842, and during that time, entertained generals Andrew Jackson, Santa Ana and Thirty Prominent Indians.

It is also said that General Zachary Taylor, eleventh President of the United States, once was a guest at this famous old tavern; but that was some years after it was conducted by Mr. Matthews. At the time Generals Jackson and Santa Ana stopped there during the Matthews proprietorship, they had their body guards with them. General Jackson was President of the United States at that time.

On one occasion while Mr. and Mrs. Matthews kept tavern at Little Crossings, they received advance notice from one of the stage companies then operating on the pike that on a certain date thirty prominent Indians on their way to Washington to confer with "The Great White Father" would stop with them for dinner. The notification was coupled with the request to have lots of beef and potatoes boiled for the Indians, and such other things as they might see fit to prepare. They were also notified to roast several turkeys for a party of prominent white people who were scheduled to dine at their house the same day.

Ample provisions were made for the two big dinner parties. The coaches carrying the Indians arrived on schedule time, but the coaches carrying the white people scheduled to eat dinner at Little Crossings were running late, and in cases of that kind the drivers had orders to keep their horses moving until the lost time was made up. So on this occasion there was so much roast turkey for the guests who failed to stop that Mr. and Mrs. Matthews hardly knew what to do with it all. They accordingly decided to divide the toothsome birds with the Indians, who were delighted with the fine feast set before them.

At that time slavery was not yet abolished, and Mr. Matthews had two negro women whom he purchased from Jesse Tomlinson, who at that time conducted the tavern known as the Stone House, at the historic Little Meadows, about three miles east of Little Crossings. The slave women were both named Sarah, but after they came into the Matthews family, one of them was renamed, and thereafter went by the name of "Sook".

INDIANS SHOW COMTEMPT FOR NEGRO SLAVES - SOOK AND SARAH PEEVED: While the Indians were delighted with the feast set before them, and could hardly be restrained by the interpreter in charge of them from tearing the roast turkeys to shreds with their fingers in their eagerness to devour them, they nevertheless showed much contempt for the negro slaves and refused to receive any food from their hands. The attitude of the aboriginal Americans peeved Sook and Sarah exceedingly, and they were excused from further duty in serving the Indians. The latter, however, showed due gratitude and friendliness toward the while people for the services rendered them. Mrs. Glotfelty says her recollection of the incident as related her in after years by her mother, is that there was a very prominent chief among the Indians entertained. In all probability the chief was Blackhawk, who with other Indians during the Jackson administration went to Washington to confer with the "Great White Father" about certain wrongs for which they sought satisfaction and redress. Mrs. Glotfelty does not distinctly remember the name of the chief. She clearly recollects, however, of often hearing her parents relate how the Indians were dressed when enroute to Washington, and the contrast between their apparel on the going trip and the return trip. There was only one squaw in the party, and all were dressed in the customary garb of their tribe while enroute to Washington, and that consisted of little more than a blanket wrapped about the body in a somewhat ingenious way. When they returned from Washington, the male Indians were dressed in suits of broadcloth, while the squaw was clad in a beautiful dress gaily decorated with glittering beads. FATAL RIVALRY OF STAGE COACH DRIVERS: Although Mrs. Glotfelty has no recollection of the palmy days of the National Pike as a wagon and stage coach road, she heard her parents relate so many interesting things pertaining to the traffic on the pike nearly a century ago, and of incidents of that remote period, that those incidents now seem as almost a portion of her own life and experience. She says her mother often told her of the rivalry between the stage coach companies and their dashing drivers, in striving to give the best service and the fastest transportation. Her mother personally knew a stage driver who was knocked from his seat and killed while racing over the picturesque high-peaked stone bride across the Casselman River at Little Crossings, by the side-swiping of the vehicles. The accident caused great excitement at the time, but did not discourage other daring Jehus from taking desperate chances to beat a rival driver to the end of his run.


Little Crossings Inn

Advertisement in the Maryland Advocate, April 3, 1830:
SAMUEL H. GILLIS returns his thanks to his fine friends and the public generally for the past favors and begs leave to inform them that he has removed to the Little Crossings, 23 miles west of Cumberland, to the House lately occupied by Mr. William Woodin, where he is constantly prepared to accommodate Travelers, Wagoners, Drovers and all others, in the most comfortable manner and at moderate charges.

Drovers. Wagoners. &c. can at all times be supplied with Hay and Grain. Attached to his house are extensive and well enclosed Pastures for the accommodation of his customers.

Note: On May 11, 1830, William Woodin advertised that he had moved his business from Little Crossings to the Tomlinson Stone House Inn, in which he had also opened a general store.


Bender Reminiscences of Little Crossings

The late John H. Bender of nearby Springs, Pennsylvania (father of Byron Bender of Little Crossings), when interviewed by the writer on December 4, 1960. shared the following choice historic tidbits.

Soon after the death of his mother in October, 1878, John, who was born in 1871, worked at Stanton's Mill as a young lad. He remembered the miller, Gilmore Meese, as a strong man who could readily carry two-bushel sacks of grain up the steep stairway of the hundred-year-old mill.

At that time the present Byron Bender log house was but a shell, and very old. He was convinced it had been built when the mills were constructed, probably as a residence for the miller. When lad John was at Little Crossings an "up-and-down" sawmill was still in operation beyond the steep bank just west of the log house and situated between the house and grist mill. This mill was operated by an overshot water-wheel.

Mr. Bender's recollections also included several other buildings of Little Crossings. The Stanton mansion (now Penn Alps) was still very evidently an old log house, of huge white pine construction, with no weatherboarding. By this time the Eli Stanton home had been built and stood in bright contrast down the Pike toward the stone bridge.

John also remembered the old blacksmith shop opposite the Eli Stanton home, with a Dick Livengood from Salisbury as the blacksmith.


The Little Crossings Area In the 1700s - A Summary

In the 1750's Little Crossings area was a howling wilderness, luxuriantly overgrown with both deciduous trees and patches of evergreens, notably hemlock in ravines and pines in bottomlands. In the next valley eastward the Shades of Death, so dark in the daytime that one could scarcely see his hand before him, was cleared with difficulty to allow horses and men to pass single-file. Through this wooded area Col. Thomas Cresap of the Ohio Company at Will's Creek in 1753 cut a trail to the Monongahela. He employed Nemacolin and other Indians to do the work, from which the name Nemacolin's Trail is derived.

In 1755 when General Braddock and George Washington forded the Casselman (then known as the Little Youghiogheny) just upstream from the present metal bridge across the river, Washington named the spot 'The Little Crossings", in contrast to The Great Crossings of the Great Youghiogheny at (later) Somerfield. In connection with this ill-fated expedition against the French at Fort Duquesne (later Pittsburgh) the ill and wounded men of the expedition (Dunbar's Brigade) were camped for a time in the bottomland below the Little Crossings Mill and the present Elliott home. Plenty of evidence has since been found in the form of army instruments and personal effects. At this time no white man appears to have been seated in the Little Crossings area.

By 1760, however, Joseph Tomlinson surveyed 100 acres of land, including the Little Meadows campground, and erected a log inn for travelers at Little Meadows several miles east of Little Crossings. In 1816, his son. Jesse Tomlinson, built the famous Stone House Inn near bis father's log structure. This whole building has stood well the rigors of decades and is still in good condition.

In 1768, John Sloan took over a tract of land known as "Grassy Cabins" near the Casselman River several miles from Little Crossings, presumably on the farm recently owned by Allen Maust.

By 1787 Thomas Stanton had settled on the west slope of Chestnut Ridge where he kept an inn and ran competition with his neighbor Tomlinson on the east slope of the Ridge. Inl792 Stanton purchased the land on which he was seated, the tract later known as "Stanton's Purchase". This land was hard by the Smooth Valley holdings of Tomlinson, who later absorbed some of Stanton's land. The later M. B. Miller farm is located in this area.

In 1797 Thomas Stanton deeded to Jesse Tomlinson water rights at Little Crossings. Thereupon the first grist mill of the area was built by Tomlinson on the site of Braddock's hospital camp referred to above.
A.E.S.


Little Crossings: 1800 - 1862

The early 1800's at Little Crossings are marked by a dearth of statistics, but there is evidence that Tomlinson's grist mill (now Stanton's Mill) on "Indian Spring Run" was a very active place. It was, apparently, the political nerve center of the area*, and elections were held here from time to time. The 1821 election was a notable one, well attended.

In 1815, according to Joseph Brown, Jesse Tomlinson deeded the grist mill to his son Joseph and built a sawmill at Little Crossings the same year. This was presumably the sawmill remembered by the late John Bender from his childhood (see "Reminiscences"). According to Scharf (see article above) Jesse Tomlinson also built a store and the old inn of stagecoach fame, both of them log structures. The writer believes they were the buildings referred to elsewhere and only a few feet apart, the inn being the present Penn Alps restaurant. Judging by the date imprinted on a cement porch post support (probably taken from a foundation stone of the main building) the inn must have been either built or remodeled in 1818. The nearby log store building just east of the inn was doubtless as old or even older.

It is interesting to note that the Tomlinsons built a sawmill at Little Crossings in 1815. the famous Stone House Tavern at Little Meadows in 1816, and (no doubt) the Little Crossings Inn or Tavern in 1818. The newly constructed sawmill doubtless supplied the lumber for both these pretentious buildings.

(* The Crossings was a center of pioneer activity quite some time before Grantsville became an important town.)

The Inn Keepers... Who operated the inn between its presumed building in 1818 and the period of William Woodin's incumbency in 1830 is not known to the writer, but suspects that the Tomlinsons themselves operated the establishment for a time. An advertisement appearing in The Maryland Advocate (see above) indicated that Woodin was here prior to April, 1830. At this time, Samuel H. Gillis took over the operation of the tavern, and no doubt kept it till George Matthews arrived in 1832 (according to the testimony of Mrs. David Cochrane and her mother. Mrs. Ellen Broadwater). Since the only post office in the area was moved from Tomlinsons Little Meadows to Little Crossings (presumably to the old log store just east of the inn) on January 6. 1834, it is probable that Mr. Matthews also served as postmaster for a time. (Further research in this area would certainly be welcomed.)

Prior to his purchase of the log inn and store, Matthews had worked for Fielding Shephard, former owner of the store. In such high esteem did Matthews hold his former employer that he named a son after this gentleman.

In 1839. according to Brown, (see above) George Matthews moved to Selbysport on the Youghiogheny, trading his Little Crossings store business for a large farm, the other party in the trade being Daniel Smouse who then moved to the Crossings to operate the score. The same year (1839) Alexander McCurdy seems to have taken over the operation of the old inn. coming here from a tavern east of Cumberland. By 1844 William R. Dawson was apparently operating the tavern, though the span of his stay here is not known to the writer.

Between the time of Dawson and the purchase of the old inn in 1862 by William Stanton, grandson of Thomas, a period of 18 years intervenes. During this time a number of inn-keepers ran the tavern, but no set dates can be assigned to them by the writer. Note the names of inn-keepers given by Searight elsewhere in this publication. It would appear that the average length of stay of these inn-keepers was less than two years. Searight also mentions that William Sheets had experience as a tavern-keeper, "at or near The Little Crossings", after which he moved to Negro Mountain. (This Sheets was apparently a half-brother of George Matthews.)

That Perry Shultz was at Little Crossings in 185 6 is evidenced by the fact that he rebuilt the grist mill that year. Whether he also ran the inn or tavern is not known at this writing. ~ A.E.S.


The Stantons at Little Crossings

According to the late Capt. Charles Hoye. eminent historian of the area. William Stanton (son of George and grandson of Thomas Stanton) lived somewhere in Smooth Valley a few miles east of Little Crossings (the later M. B. Miller farm) before he purchased Tomlinson's Mill in 1862 and at the same time moved into the old log inn or tavern (now Penn Alps) across the highway. Thus the Stanton family recovered the property sold by pioneer Thomas to the Tomlinsons in 1797.

That the Stantons were well seated in the old inn, which soon came to be known as the Stanton mansion, is evidenced by the fact that the eldest daughter, Ellen, was married here on February 7, 1865. and the first mass* was held in this home on February 8. Later during the same month (Feb. 28) EH, next oldest child of William and Mary Ann Ridgley Stanton was also married to Miss Harriett Broadwater**. During the first year after their marriage Eli and his bride lived in the log house just east of the inn (Matthew's old store).

How long the Stantons remained in the old inn is not known to the Writer, but William Stanton died here in 1869. It is the opinion of Mrs. Annie Stanton (widow of the late James Urban Stanton, youngest son of Eli) that the inn was out of Stanton hands for a time, since at the time three sisters (Isabella. Ruth, and Mary), along with their youngest brother Uriah again took over the old homestead, at least three families, Kenoyers. Blochers, and Bigfurts, were living on the premises. At that time there were presumably annexes to the old log structure which Uriah and his sisters tore away at the time they remodeled the building to make a modern dwelling. They added gables, bay windows and fancy wood turnings along the eaves and porch posts. When the major remodeling was done is not known: but the date 1906 appears on one of the porch supports, so one may conclude that some remodeling was done as late as this date.***

OTHER INTERESTING FACTS... From Mrs. Annie Stanton the writer has gathered other interesting facts about the old homestead. In 1877 Eli Stanton, who with his family had been living in an old frame house to the rear of his new building site, erected a lovely home just north-west of the old Stanton mansion. This house is now the home of Mr. and Mrs. John Elliott.

Mrs. Annie Stanton's parents, Jonas Gnagey and Lizzie Swauger Gnagey, worked for Eli Stantons prior to their marriagem he in the grist mill and she as maid to Mrs. Stanton. At this time Lizzie's cousin James Swauger was Eli's miller. (After several years of service, Swauger left for Donora, Pennsylvania, and Gilmore Meese was hired by Mr. Stanton and served for many years, working on shares.)

For a year or so after their marriage in 1872 Jonas Gnagey and his bride lived in the log house (east of the old inn) where Elis had started houskeeping. Their oldest daughter, Cora, was born in this historic building. Who lived in the inn at the time is not known at this writing.

THE BLACKSMITHS AT THE CROSSINGS: Mrs. Stanton also remembers two blacksmith shops in Little Crossings Village — one on the present Byron Bender lawn just west of this early dwelling, of which the foundation stones can still be seen under the drooping branches of a forsythia, and the other almost straight across the old highway from the Eli Stanton (now Elliott) home. The former Nellie McKenzie house now being used by Penn Alps for spinning and weaving demonstrations probably stands on the old foundation stones of this shop. According to Mrs. Stanton's memory, Ed Johnson, son of stone-mason Baker Johnson, ran the former shop, and "Uncle Dick" Cross the latter. ("Uncle Dick" was married to "Aunt Kit", a sister to Mrs. Will R. Getty.) James Urban as a boy loved to watch the old blacksmith at his forge. Perhaps Johnson was kept busy shoeing horses for patrons at the grist mill, while Uncle Dick took care of stagecoach horses. Who knows?

In addition to the Crossings buildings already mentioned there was a little weather-beaten hut at the north-west corner of the lawn of the old inn. In this humble abode a maiden lady, Mariah Ziebach, spent her lonely days and wove carpets for a living. Several of the foundation stones are still visible on this corner of the lawn.

In 1902 James Urban Stanton and his wife Annie (my informant), after having lived with Elis for five years, built a home near the east approach to the stone arch bridge. In 1907 this property was purchased by J. U.'s brother Edward and has since been in the hands of his descendants until recently purchased by a board member of Penn Alps, to be used as an educational center for that organization. The Stantons continued to live in the old inn or Stanton mansion until 1924, when the Blochers took over.

Although this little sketch does not go beyond the area of Little Crossings bounded by the Stone Arch Bridge at the west extremity and the remodeled Byron Bender log house at the east end, quite a few houses have sprung up recently, and changes too numerous to mention (of ownership and physical remodeling) have taken place in the original Stanton mansion itself. The details of the later chapters in the history of Little Crossings must await the printing of a sequel to this volume.

(* Since William Stanton's second wife, Mary Ann Ridgley, was a Catholic, most of the descendents oi this marriage were of that faith.
** Upon settling at Little Crossings, EH and his bride became members of St. John's Reformer Church of Grantsville.
*** By 1882, when Scharf published his History of Western Maryland, the old log inn was already weatherboarded, so this must have been done between 1879 and 1882, according to the memories of John H. Bender (See Bender Reminiscences).)
~ A.E.S.


Historic Lineages at Little Crossings

Of special interest to the reader is the fact that John Elliott, great-great-grandson of David Shriver, Jr., builder of the famous bridge whose birthday is being celebrated this year, resides at Little Crossings, almost in the shadow of this noble structure. Also living at Little Crossings, and currently operating the old grist mill which has been in Stanton hands for five generations and is located on land which was Stanton-owned for the first time seven generations ago when pioneer Thomas Stanton settled in "Smooth Valley" cast of here, is Robert Bender. Robert's mother. Mary Stanton Bender, was the grand-daughter of Eli (who operated the old grist mill longer than any other miller) and daughter of William E., also a miller.

Historic Anniversaries at and Near the Crossings

In addition to the 150th anniversary or the famous old stone arch bridge at The Crossings, several other noteworthy birthdays are being celebrated this year. The Little Crossings Inn (now Penn Alps) is now 145 years old; the Tomlinson (now Stanton) grist mill 166 years old; and the nearby Mason and Dixon Line separating Maryland from Pennsylvania 200 years old in 1963. One might also note that next year (1964) marks the centennial of the first incorporation of Grantsville.


IN PRESENTING this brief history to the public, no claim to completeness is made, but every effort has been put forth to assemble material already in print relating to the Little Crossings Community and the famous bridge; to interview senior residents of the area who have roots in the community and to summarize the findings of both. The result—this little publication—represents a very humble presentation to posterity.

During the assembling of the included articles and the preparation of several pen sketches, the writer has been impressed not only with the wealth of historic material available, but also with the great need for original research in early deeds, court records and other documents. She therefore wishes to encourage all who have a flair for history and an interest in this old community to lend a hand at unearthing facts and figures and make them available for publication of a sequel to this volume. Moreover, material on the history of Grantsville is sorely needed for the preparation of a similar publication to be presented in connection with the centennial of the incorporation of this village, to be held next year. Good photographs of both Grantsville and Little Crossings are also needed. ~ Alta E. Schrock

Published under the auspices of The Little Crossings Historical Committee, Robert Bender, Treasurer. For Sale at Penn Alps Craft Shop, Grantsville, Md.



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  Last Update: March 11, 2010